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Hollingbury Road

Photo:Hollingbury Road

Hollingbury Road

From the private collection of Joy Whittam

One of the first of the 'Fiveways'
By Joy Whittam and Deborah Fleming (this article first appeared in the Hollingdean News, independent community newsletter).

The houses in Hollingbury Road, some three storeyed, were built from about 1886 and represent development over many decades. Given its close proximity to the Dust Destructor chimney burning the town's household waste, the abattoir, and steam laundries this was probably not the most fashionable part of town! Many of its first residents had occupations which reflected the kind of local industries including a builder, green grocer, dairyman and several laundresses.

Grand Victorian occupants
Page's Directory for 1887 lists just four 'Villas' in the road worthy of having a postal address, a Surgeon and a Count among the somewhat grander occupants. Curiously the census of 1891 reveals no record of Hollingbury Road, although the road itself and several properties appear on maps from the late 1890's. The 1901 census shows an increase in households with house numbering now up to 41.

A resident in the first decades of the 1900's recalled that the surface of Hollingbury Road was made up of rolled flint "spread over the chalk base with a mixture of marble, plenty of water and a heavy roller". This type of road gave a good grip for horses' hooves but needed to be damped down with sprayed water to reduce the dust during summer months. Horse drawn vehicles and bicycles were the heaviest traffic, allowing children the freedom of playing in the road.

A child's view from the 1940's
This lack of motor traffic lasted into more recent memory - a local resident Jane, whose family lived at 107 Hollingbury Road from 1942- 44, remembers as a small child being able to easily cross all the roads at the Fiveways junction. She did however get knocked down by a bicycle when running across the road to visit a friend at "Vine Cottage" a bungalow hidden behind Hollingbury Road - the friend's garden providing the land which much later became Adams Close.

For some years Smiths Clocks had a factory occupying land on the west side of Hollingbury Road, (now the site of  Ditchling Gardens and Place). During the Second World War production expanded due to the demand for aircraft and marine instruments and Numbers 105 and 107 were commandeered as offices, with Jane's family and the neighbours, having to move out.

Making clocks for Spitfires
Jane remembers the girls working in the factory "making clocks for Spitfires" waving to her and her brother. Living near a tall chimney like the Dust Destructor in war time was not without risk, as from the air its function might not have been apparent. One day at no.107, a young Jane thought she heard an aeroplane coming overhead  - "the plane was flying so low that when it dropped the bomb on the Dust Destructor it went in one side and out the other and so didn't do any damage to the chimney!" Jane also recalls seeing a gun emplacement positioned on top of the Co-op building at Fiveways.

The beginnings of the Artists' Open Houses
In 1980 Ned Hoskins, an artist, moved into no. 8 at the bottom end of the road at a time when "a lot of the houses were divided up into flats and many were in poor condition." He restored his own property with the intention of opening the top floors of his house to show some of his paintings to the public. This was a great success and the following year he was joined by other artists showing their art works in his house. Gradually other artists opened up their own house and so began the Fiveways Open Houses now involving over 200 artists houses locally and a hugely popular part of the annual Brighton festival. Through this Ned has made many friends in the road and contributed an interesting chapter to the history of  Hollingbury Road.

This page was added on 09/06/2007.

Comments:

I lived at no.66 from 1950(when I was born) until 1964 when we left for OZ. There were a lot less vehicles in the road than in the above. So much so that when the Brighton Races were on coaches returning home to London had enough space to race up the road and overtake each other, I would like to see them do that these days! When that "race" was on Hollingbury Road was left under a thick black blanket of smoke, thanks to the not so green ego friendly diesel engines that were around back then. As with a lot of streets back in the fifties, Hollingbury Road was no exception. It was safe, friendly and us kids had lots of "aunties and uncles" in the road where we could visit have a "pit stop" get refreshed and get back out into the street. Because that was our playground and that's what we did! We the "gang" which included from the top Terry Michell, Chris Cager, yours truly, Peter Vine (who later became a building inspector for the Brighton Council) Nigel and Melvin Wootton, Malcolm Oliver. And from Roedale Road Michael Knight and Robert Virgo had some great and not so great times in the neighbourhood. If any of you should happen to read this I hope you are happy and in good health. One of our past times as a group was "book and skate" racing !(Pre skate board) That is grabbing your current Beano, Dandy, or Eagle annual placing it onto one of your roller skates, sitting on it at the top of Hollingbury Road (eastern side) and when the word is given push off with your hands as hard and as fast as you could, not forgetting to lean back to reduce wind resistance, and pity any poor unsuspecting neighbour who should be leaving via their front gate! The knee high flash of boy book and skate would if skilful enough terminate in a pile up of kit against the wall of Quicks Fish and Chip Shop in Upper Hollingdean Road. I think that's enough of the effect that "races" had upon Hollingbury Road. More in my next comment.

By Paul Wheatley (27/06/2007)

My first job, at just turned 14, was at the "Smith's" factory in Hollingbury road, in January, 1937, only then it was an old wooden building at the back of the houses on the west side, near the top, and was called Pullar's Instruments. Instruments such as barometers were made there, with "innards" imported from Germany and Czechoslovakia. The preferred way to get from our house at the top of Freshfield Road to the Pullars factory was to walk, taking about half an hour each way. I had been pushed out of St Luke's Senior Boys School, educated or not, after attaining my 14th birthday in the previous November, though I signed on for further education (mechanical engineering) at nightschool, in the Intermediate school building opposite St. Peter's Church. At Pullars I was taught how to sweep up, how to smoke cigarettes, who was Cab Calloway, and what was scat singing. I also learned how to cut thick wire with a hacksaw and how to make a thread on the cut end. In February however, my mother decided I was not going to learn anything worthwhile and she took me out to the Southdown bus overhaul facility on Victoria Road, Portslade, where she signed me up as an "apprentice" to learn engine fitting. Like Pullars, this job paid two pence (tuppence or 2d) an hour, for a 48-hour week, so that I ended up with seven shillings and tenpence a week, tuppence having beeen deducted for unemployment insurance. I often wondered what happened to all those tuppences. When I gave my pay packet to my mother she opened it and gave me back two shillings for myself, the rest being retained for my "keep."

By Robert Green (09/07/2007)

I too lived in Hollingbury Road (No.7) from 1955 until 1957, when we moved around the corner to 15a Upper Hollingdean Road. 7 Hollingbury Road was the home of my nan and grandad, George and Dolly Budd, and my mum, dad and me and my brother Paul lived there with them. I remember how quiet the road was and how well kept all the front gardens were. Cars were a rare sight then.  Chalks grocers shop was on the corner (later Formula One) and further up Hollingbury Road was Doubles grocers shop. These were lovely old fashioned shops. I remember there was Miss Chalk, rather a stern 'spinster' lady, and her little old mum who used to sit in the back room of the shop by an old paraffin stove with a kettle on it.  Doubles was run by Mr and Mrs Double. Mr Double always wore an immaculate white overall. I liked watching him slice the ham and bacon on a big slicing machine. My nan used to give them a list of shopping and Mr Double would walk down the road and bring it to the house. When we moved round the corner, we were in a basement flat belonging to the Hollman family and we stayed there until I was 11.

By Irene Dobson (21/04/2008)

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