Deb’s Deli in Gardner Street is a kind of microcosm of Brighton. It’s cosmopolitan, it’s suave, it’s ethnic in the way that Brighton has lots of ethnic communities (the North Laine is different to Kemp Town, Norfolk Square, or the seafront, or the Lanes). You walk past it on a dull winter’s day and the door will be open and it will smell of the Mediterranean. To me it is Brighton; it’s not just English because Brighton is not just an English town. It’s too different to be just an English town.