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Coldean, Falmer and Stanmer

An introduction

We need a local editor for this area. No particular technical knowledge is needed, just access to the internet and e-mail. We are looking for someone who is interested in the area and its history, could field queries, and might help assemble content about the area to include in the website. Please e-mail us if you're interested.

Coldean
Perhaps of all the Brighton suburban areas Coldean is the most well defined and self contained. Unlike its neighbours Moulsecoomb or Hollingbury, it sits snugly in a steep sided valley ('dean' is AngloSaxon for valley) on the extreme north-east of the city. It is surrounded by the rural splendours of WildPark, the Ditchling Road ridge and the wooded expanse of Stanmer Park, and even on its southern border, where it abuts the busy Lewes Road, has a fine expanse of urban parkland.

Falmer
In 1066 the manor of Falmer was held by the Priory of St. Pancras at Lewes, but in 1776 it was sold to Thomas Pelham, later the Earl of Chichester.  It was part of the Stanmer estate of 4,958 acres acquired by Brighton Corporation in 1947.  The inappropriately named 'Falmer Diversion' A27 road scheme was completed in 1981, splitting the village in two. (Tim Carder: Encyclopaedia of Brighton)

Stanmer
Stanmer lies on the northern fringe of the city and is a rare feature in the urban area: an isolated agricultural village, a mansion set in a landscape park, a church next to a duck pond, and a working farm in the village street complete with calves and plentiful supplies of cow muck!

The Stanmer estate has extensive woodlands and is surrounded by the South Downs Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Only the University of Sussex on its eastern border reminds you it is not a Thomas Hardy film set! Beloved by locals as a green lung, it has been the scene of major rock concerts and is an increasing lure to bands of 'travellers' who find its unfenced acres an easy settlement area.

This page was added on 27/07/2006.

Comments:

In the 1930s Coldean was in fledgling form with its house building in progress. My father Jack Spicer, being a rope scaffolder, was employed locally from our address across the way. A change to just walk to work. His employment was still spasmodic though due to its very nature, with many a gap between scaffold erections. It was during that period the scaffolding system started to change over to the metal sort seen today. Quicker with less effort. Another change to his workability was forthcoming! I remember playing in the seemingly huge basement area dug out for the Hikers Rest cellars. At that time the cottages abutting Coldean Lane and the main Falmer road remained as did Woollards Nursery with its abundance of good eating apples .... Further up the road, westwards towards the hilltop lay West's Farm with its cattle effluent running across the road and into the nearby field. The smell of pigs also filled the air as they roamed almost freely about the buildings. Old farmer West was a clumpish red faced individual who was assisted by his grown up son. There was also a daughter, largely built with fair hair, not much above my age. The Earl of Chichester's estate, StanmerPark, was well protected with game keepers but they didn't prevent the odd excursion over the wall opposite the Falmer Pumping Station to collect sweet chestnuts which in turn led to the discovery of pheasant nests with plenty of eggs. Yes we did! In the harsher winter times we also went over the wall and picked up all the dropped dead wood we could find for the home fires. Inside the estate at that time one could traverse the road to the village but had to keep to the grass. No exploring further afield was allowed and there nearly always appeared to be a game keeper present to ensure compliance. The village farm also had that cattle effluent running freely from the roadside cattle enclosure. At the far end of the village was yet another sweet chestnut tree. Whether or not it's still there I don't know. What I do know is that it was a very harsh yet good time in our lives.

By Ron Spicer (06/07/2008)

I'm interested in your reminisences, Ron, particularly about the cottages on Coldean Lane that you mention. Do you happen to have any photos of them, or do you know anyone who does?

By Barbara Allen (14/09/2008)

Sorry Barbara, I haven't any photos of the cottages to help, nor do I know of anyone with any. Mr. and Mrs Hazeldean who lived in one of the cottages were very hard working country folk who always seemed to be smiling. All the local children liked them. The grounds around the dwellings were always kept in neat order with much produce grown.

By Ron Spicer (05/10/2008)

Whilst not being allowed to wander about the Stanmer estate in those times, it was possible to go further along the continuation of the village road into the downs to Mary's Farm. I don't know if it's still in existence as such. On a number of occasions, not too long before WWII we used to go as a family to the farmland to picnic. Nothing special, bread and cheese with onion or similar easily obtained food, accompanied by tea and water.
On several occasions we found that a small biplane would circle above, fairly low, and the pilot would wave at us.
Too, there was often a man on a beautiful white horse cantering the area, and he always stopped to speak.
Another aspect of the general area was the Falmer Camp when, I think it was the Territorial Army but not sure, would occupy a fairly large area of the downland on the Stanmer side of Falmer in its summer camp, an annual event. Many of the local families would visit the camp out of interest and I can remember seeing the soldiers shaving with a small mirror tied to a tent post. Best of all, when they were going to leave, they had a parade with, to me at the time, the world's best military band playing amongst other tunes as they marched, Sussex By The Sea. Wonderful.

By Ron Spicer (09/10/2008)

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